Viktor & Rolf’s designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren helped rejoice Wednesday night time’s opening of a retrospective of their work on the Excessive Museum of Artwork in Atlanta.
Greater than 100 examples of their designs are on view in “Viktor & Rolf. Vogue Statements,” which highlights the Dutch designers’ capacity over 30-plus years to create haute couture that challenges what constitutes artwork. The exhibition is about up in 9 chapters — “Vogue Artists,” “Russian Dolls,” “Vogue Statements,” “The Dolls,” “Zen Backyard,” “Performing Vogue,” “Viktor & Rolf on Stage” and “Upcycling Couture.” Happy with the symmetry of “Viktor & Rolf. Vogue Statements” and the welcome response they’re receiving, the pair spoke with WWD Thursday afternoon.
As for what jumps out on the pair seeing the retrospective, Snoeren stated, “How onerous we labored — how a lot we did. Additionally, there’s a sense of gratitude that we’re nonetheless right here and that we’re nonetheless greatest mates.”
Horsting added, “That we’re right here in america with our very first huge exhibition may be very particular. It makes you humble.”
Whereas the exhibition is about Viktor & Rolf’s model and their work, it’s not a brand-sponsored present.
Snoeren added, “Strolling by means of the exhibition, you see that generally the collections are a bit extra romantic. Someway the temper adjustments, however you see the weather that we work with are at all times the identical. It’s good to see that continuation.”
Having simply proven the Viktor & Rolf ready-to-wear assortment in Paris final week, the pair stated their crew, in addition to the Excessive Museum and the exhibition’s curator Thierry-Maxime Loriot labored on the exhibition “very intensely.” The truth that the designers and curator had coordinated on the exhibition earlier than, because it was beforehand staged in Munich, helped to lighten the load.
With fashion-themed exhibitions more and more gaining curiosity at museums and cultural establishments in world capitals, the Excessive Museum’s opening in Atlanta is critical, since secondary cities try to observe that lead. Snoeren stated, “It comes right down to what museums have the budgets to do it. The Excessive Museum had an enormous sponsor, Lauren Amos, so they’re able to do these items. Vogue exhibitions are fairly pricey. It’s additionally very rewarding, when a present like this travels.”
Earlier this yr, Amos, a longtime board member and proprietor of the speciality retailer Antidote, made a multimillion-dollar donation to fund style exhibitions. Holding the exhibition in Georgia additionally affords “a pull issue on a nationwide stage,” Horsting stated. “With social media, the knowledge will get dispersed.”
Visiting Atlanta for the primary time, the duo famous how scorching, humid and pleasant town is. On the heels of getting obtained “fairly constructive” evaluations for his or her rtw return, the designers will maintain a trunk present at Antidote on Friday. The designers’ reentry has concerned reorganizing how their collections are made with rather more of an in-house method, which retains every little thing nearer to them.
All in all although, the style world is inspiring them as we speak, they stated. “We discover fascinating — the principles, the hierarchy, the exhibits. It’s one thing that conjures up us to design,” Snoeren stated.
As for the altering of the guard at a number of the main luxurious homes, “That’s fascinating as properly — how that works, the eye it will get and eager about our personal place within the system. We see ourselves as individuals who have one foot within the style system and one foot out of it,” he stated.
Horsting added, “We’re beginning to really feel just like the final of the Mohicans. We’re one of many few founders of a model which might be additionally nonetheless linked to our model.”
Whereas what makes buyers spend is an everlasting query, he instructed originality, authenticity and the need to have one thing that you’re the one one, or among the many few, that has it. There additionally must be a private connection to no matter you purchase — one thing that triggers a want. “There’s a lot that doesn’t occur simply.”
Requested if there was something they wished folks understood extra about their work, the designers laughed. All in all, their technique is to be advanced to reveal how issues could be a number of issues without delay. Snoeren stated, “Generally that complexity can stand in the way in which of…”
“Appreciation,” supplied Horsting.
Snoeren continued, “You recognize an viewers faucets right into a sure layer in your humor or…ultimately, the complexity is usually onerous to know.”
Agreeing that the “magnificence is within the depth,” he added, “Sure, and the thriller.”
The ever-shrinking consideration span of the world at giant is extensively identified. “All of us have shorter consideration spans, together with myself,” Snoeren stated.
Horsting added, “Sure, however all of us wish to be stimulated and challenged to search out one thing new and genuine. I are inclined to suppose that it’s our job to be clear. It’s our job to speak and to succeed in that viewers. I’d sooner blame myself than the viewers.”
Trying forward, the pair will likely be judging a contest in Hyères, after which they are going to be off to Doha in Qatar for a Vogue Belief Arabia occasion. There’s additionally the following Viktor & Rolf couture present to organize for in January.
