Galib Gassanof’s work is extra attuned to artistry and research-intensive craft than mundane dressmaking.
For his latest solo trend mission Establishment, the designer’s purpose has been to this point, and is for now, to discover what a model with business targets – and restraints – merely couldn’t.
A perfecto jacket with no armholes? Examine. A prime product of denim shoe laces or rattan placemats? Examine.
There have been extra iterations on unrealistic garments on the catwalk Friday morning, the designer’s second present. None was only a stunt, all of them spoke, to totally different extents, of Gassanof’s roots.
The three closing seems – an obvious homage to Christian Dior’s New Look – featured full skirts product of weaved bulrush, a plant rising within the lowlands of his native Azerbaijan. There stays only one group of 13 feminine weavers nonetheless mastering the craft, with whom Gassanof collaborated.
Scattered in between have been flooring sweeping skirts with excessive slits paired with glove-equipped peplum blazers, handkerchief tops in supple leather-based and a wondrous topcoat crafted from satin normally employed for linings and grainy leather-based framing the lapels.
Rug-like throws was asymmetrical tops edged in fringes and barely there tops embellished with classic ivory buttons certified as one-of-a-kind collectibles of kinds, extra sculptures than clothes.
A variation of the identical piece decked in small motion cameras was blatantly grotesque — and purposefully so — a reminder that trend artifacts maintain traces of those that create them, artisans who may now see the world by way of the garment’s eyes.
