MILAN — “I’m a fighter and I’ve to show issues to myself more often than not in my life, so the surface expectations turn out to be like a aspect impact.”
So stated Demna in his first unique interview forward of his debut as inventive director of Gucci. He’s totally conscious that the stakes are excessive and that his first designs for the Italian trend model will probably be microscopically scrutinized, however he clearly is aware of how to deal with the stress.
Sitting within the luminous workplace on the model’s Milan sprawling headquarters, Demna, wearing black and sporting a gold chain with a Gucci crest, was cautious to explain the primary appears to be like that go reside Monday as “child steps. I’m not but defining my Gucci imaginative and prescient, however the platform on which I construct that. I wish to reset the understanding and notion of what Gucci is thru my reinterpretation.”
Whereas shying away from taking full credit score for the appears to be like, and infrequently citing Tom Ford as an inspiration — the designer who’s a part of the “trinity” that features Martin Margiela and Lee McQueen — the spring 2026 lineup is clearly a optimistic development that’s prone to hit the spot out there.
To telegraph the “Gucciness” of Gucci, Demna created a collection of characters who’re a part of “La Famiglia,” every with their very own character and perspective. Working with newly put in chief govt officer Francesca Bellettini, the designer determined to launch a glance e-book photographed by Catherine Opie on Monday, forward of the quick movie “The Tiger” that will probably be proven on Tuesday night in Milan, directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn.
Whereas particulars on the movie’s forged are being stored below wraps, Demi Moore is without doubt one of the actors embodying a personality conceived as a part of La Famiglia.
“From the very starting, I formed the gathering by imagining a constellation of characters, asking myself what Gucci means to me, from its archive to the various identities it embodies,” Demna stated. “I gathered an imaginary household to hold the story, every determine holding a fraction of the broader narrative. Since my first present will probably be in February, I felt just like the story of La Famiglia must be informed by a brief movie. I shared it with Spike and Halina, whose work I’ve lengthy admired, and so they created their movie, ‘The Tiger,’ impressed by these characters.”
The look e-book opens with L’Archetipo, a monogrammed journey trunk that underscores how founder Guccio Gucci started the corporate as a luggage-maker. “I believe it’s an important a part of the historical past that I don’t really feel was sufficient of a spotlight in recent times. It represents the start, every thing that this model was constructed on,” Demna stated.
Subsequent up is L’Incazzata, a colloquial option to say “very offended,” telegraphing Demna’s undercurrent of irony.
“It is a world model, however I additionally wished to place the accent on the Italianness of it,” stated the designer, explaining the selection of names for the characters. This character is portrayed by Maria Carla Boscono, who wears a Sixties-style female pink coat with gold GG closures that was impressed by Jackie Kennedy. The actress carries a revisited bamboo bag, and wears black leather-based gloves, horsebit pumps with excessive chunky heels, a Flora scarf round her head and massive darkish sun shades. A big silver flower brooch completes the stylish look.
The picture has a really particular which means for Demna. “Crimson is, for me, a really Gucci colour as a result of it’s a part of the [brand’s signature] net, and it’s the colour of ardour, but in addition, once I was a baby, I fell in love with a bit pink coat I noticed in a retailer. I’ve informed this story 1,000,000 instances earlier than, however I’ve to, as a result of it’s necessary, there’s a private connection to me and why that is the primary look. I didn’t care that it was a woman’s coat, I didn’t must put on it, I simply wished to see it day by day. That was the start of my relationship with trend, I used to be so obsessive about this coat.”
He purchased it, however whereas Demna was asleep, “my household gave it again to the shop and informed me that it fell off the balcony. I couldn’t forgive my household; I knew they lied to me as a result of they didn’t need me to have it, so I all the time had this frustration about this little pink coat taken away from the little me. Opening with this, I felt prefer it was a really vital symbolic factor. I believe symbolism is necessary in every thing you do in trend.”
Whereas Demna understands Italian and has been studying extra phrases, he admitted he had not heard the time period “sprezzatura,” which he infused into the appears to be like.
“It’s a laid-back ease and studied nonchalance,” he defined, which he wished the appears to be like to have.
Certainly, the designs swing between minimalist and maximalist. Cue the regal quilted Flora floor-length gown with a excessive collar and zipped up within the entrance or, in a surprising darkish model for La Contessa, the floral sample is rendered on a black background and has leg-of-lamb sleeves. This sort of sleeve can be seen in a wonderful shearling coat in a singular azure hue worn by La Sciura, a Milanese time period for lady.
Mrs. La Principessa dons a ‘70s pussy-bow robe in bubble-gum pink and feather trims, which has hints of Alessandro Michele, whereas La Diva’s electrical blue mock fur was impressed by Sophia Loren, Demna stated.
These grand appears to be like distinction with the seamless, stretch, embroidered quick tube gown worn by Miss Aperitivo; La Ragazza, the lady, who wears a black turtleneck over a crocodile miniskirt and stiletto boots, or La Gallerista, in an all-black, formfitting pantsuit and silk shirt. The lads put on free pants and black denim denims with horsebit particulars and The Figo, a biker jacket that additionally has horsebit particulars over roomy stonewashed denims. The Cocco di Mamma, or mama’s boy, wears an oversize Prince of Wales coat.
“Gucci can be loads in regards to the perspective, all of those characters are assured, they’ve a viewpoint, they love trend and so they love garments.” Certainly there may be Demna’s viewpoint right here, tailored to Gucci.
“To me, all these archetypes signify the Gucci crowd, the shoppers of Gucci sooner or later who will every of them be capable to discover one thing within the assortment that they will relate to. It’s not like one, mono silhouette, mono every thing, such as you both prefer it or not scenario,” stated Demna, admitting he was experimenting with minimalism, “one thing very new for me, and tremendous thrilling, as a result of it’s probably the most tough aesthetic in design that you are able to do and I wish to do it in a contemporary manner. And I discovered numerous minimalist references in Tom Ford‘s period, which I discover very, very inspiring. And I believe I wish to construct and evolve that in future.”
Lightness can be a key phrase for Demna on this assortment, seen within the feather trims or the embroidered mousseline coat stitched with little strips of shearling.
The night attire will little question be successful with most of the Gucci A-list company anticipated on the premiere of the movie, reminiscent of the gorgeous gold-embroidered gown with an open again worn by La Mecenate. In any case, that is the primary time the model is being helmed by a designer who can be a couturier.
The GG monogram was revisited in a silk twill shirt over a canvas A-line skirt worn by La Vip and in a laminated trenchcoat seen on La V.I.C.
The lineup could also be simply an aperitif, but when seems like an assured effort from Demna, which will probably be adopted by the movie, or “the dessert,” as he described it with a smile. And to capitalize on what is anticipated to be sturdy demand from customers, the garments will probably be out there in 10 shops the day after the premiere for 2 weeks in Los Angeles, New York, London, Milan, Paris, Beijing, Shanghai, Singapore, Seoul and Tokyo.
Within the interview, Demna took the time to discuss his imaginative and prescient for the model, his appreciation for Milan and the Gucci staff, and his pleasure for what’s to come back.
Reflective and eloquent, he clearly doesn’t depart something to likelihood, and his ardour for his job — and the product, which comes up repeatedly within the dialog — is palpable.
“Coming here’s a large accountability, however I’d by no means have accepted to embark on this wonderful, new, enormous journey with out having a imaginative and prescient,” he stated merely. “That’s the very first thing I did so as to have the ability to keep away from the stress of it as a result of stress comes once you don’t know what you wish to do.”
WWD: How are you adjusting to Milan and to this new chapter of your life?
Demna: I’ve been to Milan just a few instances earlier than, however I by no means actually stayed right here for longer than a day. I’ve been discovering the town since July, as a result of I used to be in search of an residence and I actually noticed the fantastic thing about Milan, the buildings, the hidden courtyards, the poetic, cinematic aspect of the town that I didn’t know earlier than. It’s a metropolis that feels actual and a bit brutal and Brutalist in some locations. I like that. I like the number of issues that I see right here and the individuals, I like the directness, and there’s numerous younger, cool individuals. I really feel like trend is necessary for them. I didn’t know that and I like seeing it, after all, as a result of that’s how I really feel myself. I see lots of people who’re actually into what they put on, and I believe they take it severely. I like that mentality.
WWD: Did you discover the residence?
D.: Sure, I nonetheless have just a few bins to unpack, but it surely’s enjoyable. I moved all my life, since I used to be a child. Shifting is a part of my DNA, though I’d say, proper now, with age, I desire to maneuver a bit much less. I wish to know locations and have my habits and all of that. I spent 15 years in Paris, and I even have by no means lived in a single place for as long as I lived in Paris. Even earlier than the Gucci dialog began, I used to be already considering, what could be my subsequent place? Paris had turn out to be a bit claustrophobic, as a result of it’s a giant metropolis, however you already know everybody. I like being right here. I’m very excited and my husband is, too. I really feel very, very impressed by the Italianness of the town.
WWD: I do know you additionally visited Florence and the archive there. What was your takeaway, and what impressed you probably the most?
D.: That was essential for me, as a result of it was at the start, after we had been speaking about Gucci and I knew I didn’t know sufficient, I’d say I knew bits and items. I found this model once I was a teen watching Style TV. Tom Ford and Gucci exhibits had been type of a benchmark for the 13-, 14- year-old me, who dreamt of trend however I didn’t know a lot of the historical past earlier than that. Going to the archive was much more than inspiring. It was like a revelation ultimately. It excited me. And once I got here out, I used to be like, OK, I wish to come right here and I wish to work out what my imaginative and prescient is.
I didn’t know the Gucci crest, for instance, or the entire story of Guccio Gucci, the place he began, the place he got here from, and being so clever and so progressive for the instances. Additionally to come back again from London and have all these concepts, after which begin the model that grew to become what it’s, which is without doubt one of the greatest and most globally acknowledged manufacturers. I discovered that so inspiring, understanding the place Gucci got here from, as a result of I come from that type of background — nothing was actually given to me in my life and I needed to work for it. I needed to combat for it. And I really feel like once you come from that type of background and also you succeed, it’s extraordinarily inspiring.
I used to be so impressed by the number of leather-based items. I by no means actually had in my previous experiences the chance to have so many codes. I labored for manufacturers that didn’t have even just a few of these codes so I needed to invent them. That is like going to Disneyland for a creative director. I believe you’ll be able to rely on one hand the manufacturers which have that number of codes to construct on — possibly not even one hand.
WWD: The again historical past in equipment is there, as you say, however when it comes to trend, Gucci is sort of like a clear slate in a manner, as a result of Tom Ford created one, Frida Giannini had one other one, and Alessandro Michele but had one other one. How do you’re feeling in regards to the trend angle? Can it’s completely new?
D.: Positively. Gucci is kind of distinctive in that. I don’t know many manufacturers the place you’ve got that freedom of inventive imaginative and prescient with each new chapter as a result of often you’ve got this overwhelming and really scary shadow of the founder, who did one thing 100 years in the past that you simply all the time want to check and to type of virtually justify what you do. Many of the Parisian homes have that scenario, and that’s what I went by loads, and I all the time discovered it stunning, as a result of you need to discover the connection and hyperlink to it, but in addition limiting. As a result of, if I all the time have to consider the factor that outlined the aesthetic of the model 50 or 100 years in the past, it doesn’t all the time work immediately, and also you’re much less agile. What I noticed as a chance for me as a inventive at Gucci, on prime of getting the codes which might be distinctive and really uncommon, I even have the chance of constructing a brand new imaginative and prescient primarily based on my creativity, my mind and my instinct principally. I don’t must get impressed by the collections of Gucci’s ready-to-wear from the ‘60s. It’s the mindset, it’s the Gucciness of Gucci. Really, it’s the primary time in my life that I felt it’s releasing to see that and to suppose that manner. I really feel I’m very fortunate to have the ability to have the steadiness between the multitude of codes from A to Z, from a idler to the bamboo and every thing in between, and the silks and the Flora and all that, however then additionally having this clear slate on which I can construct one thing new that you already know is sensible for Gucci in 2025 or ’26.
WWD: On a private degree, I’m certain you already know that there’s numerous consideration on you and on Gucci, heading a significant model for a significant group. How do you address this? Do you simply shrug it off as white noise within the background? Do you concentrate on your self and your work?
D.: I used to be conscious coming right here, however I’m so used to it, that I type of turn out to be virtually numb to that. There’s traumatic expectations from Day One, however I’ve traumatic expectations on me.
Final December, I went to L.A. for a few weeks, I used to be honored and I wished to consider the aesthetic imaginative and prescient I might suggest to Gucci earlier than we might even go additional within the dialog, after which I despatched it to Francesca simply after Christmas. And from that second on, the stress of expectation for me was gone, as a result of I knew that I beloved what I used to be proposing, then I hoped, after all, that they might like it, too, as a result of that was the subsequent step.
WWD: Are you able to share that imaginative and prescient with us?
D.: I believe it’s one thing that’s now a work-in-progress till my present in February, which goes to be the primary present. From the very starting, I made a decision that I couldn’t maintain a present this 12 months as a result of I solely began working right here in July, and for me it’s such a giant mission, I would like at the least one correct season to construct my imaginative and prescient, to evolve it primarily based on the primary analysis that I began, and likewise to create a trend present that really declares the brand new period of this model. I don’t know, possibly different individuals can do it in two months, I’m very perfectionist in my method. That is like my Erasmus 12 months for Gucci. I believe numerous expectations for me right here, basically, are that I come right here and do oversize jackets and put logos on it. Why would I come to Gucci to do what I’ve carried out earlier than? I really feel prefer it’s superficial to anticipate that from me. For me, individuals who anticipate that, they don’t actually know, artistically, who I’m. If somebody thinks that I’ll come right here and do an oversize bomber with a GG monogram, it means they didn’t perceive something about my work till now.
WWD: Certainly it’s early days however have you ever already thought-about Gucci’s life-style idea, the ultra-luxe Salons additionally a part of the turnaround technique?
D.: Sure, because the inventive director, you need to contemplate the total package deal, the visuals, and the way we talk with our clients within the retailer. I’ve been working and researching already since a few months. Clearly, it’s too early now, however we attempt as quick as we are able to. It’s additionally a giant model during which it’s very laborious to alter issues from someday to a different and we have to work it by. After my first present, the start of the Demna chapter, I believe that would be the second to speak about these issues extra broadly.
